London Fashion Week Exhibition had a minor facelift this season. Conjoining the exhibition and the runway (under one roof), went some way toward making the whole week more navigational. And, with ON|OFF housed just around the corner in the Science Museum and Fashion Scout on the other corner of Cromwell Road, the practicalities of all the locations in close proximity to one another, seemed to herald the beginning of a new era for London Fashion Week. Possibly a precursor test or trial-run for when it is moved to its new home at Somerset House (near Covent Garden) in September.
So as not to make visitors feel too unsettled, the format of the exhibition was the same, with areas designated to firm favourites like: BFC estethica (sponsored by Monsoon) and BFC New Gen (sponsored by Topshop); as well as ready-to-wear collections and accessories. But, it was in the BFC New Gen zone where most of the fashion sustenance could be found.
Presenting welcomed variations on the perennial A/W '09 themes (with such refreshing foresight), made the outlook for the forthcoming season so much more brighter — despite the economic climate. Borba Margo, Felder · Felder, Jacob Kimmie and Mary Katrantzou — all neatly assembled in an area, that seemed like fashion paradise or home to some of the most innovative fashion creations around.
BORBA MARGO
First up, Borba Margo's collection of empowering accessories, presented a new method of accessorising an outfit. The clever simplicity of the option of adding to what you already have by using sculptured frills (by zipping them into place), cinching with belts and other silhouette enhancing accessories, revealed the wonders of a woman's curves.
Using the softest of leathers, Margo's ability to create accessories that can really manipulate the silhouette of a woman's form, has refreshingly helped to evolve the concept of accessorising clothing.
FELDER · FELDER
The success of skin tight leather leggings seems to have enliven the imagination of designers so much so that leather has permeated into one of the key fabrics for A/W ''09.
Felder · Felder displayed some edgy cropped jackets toughen up with studs across the shoulders for their forthcoming winter collection.
JACOB KIMMIE
Jacob Kimmie produced one of his strongest collections to date, with the exploration of traditional tailoring and dressmaking that play with symmetry and deconstruction of key wardrobe staples (e.g. the rain mac which is recreated into a dress).
For his A/W '09 collection,
Kimmie romanticizes the notion of wartime London, drawing on the resilience of its inhabitants. Making do and mending has given the collection a level of austerity fitting for these current times. Sticking resolutely to a monochrome palette of black and white (with a flash of pink, metallic gold and butterscotch in just four outfits), any piece from the collection can be merchandised quite easily into colour schemes.
Despite the hardship, glamour still prevails through the use of dramatic diagonal pleated sash silk blouses, silk satin tea dresses, asymmetric frills on jackets and wool skirts. As an added feature to garments, leather and fur has been added to detachable collars and trims.
MARY KATRANTZOU
There was a buzz in anticipation of Mary Katrantzou's catwalk show, which was rightly warranted. Her debut collection of printed shift dresses showed off her talent for assembling colours into ingenuous patterns, that will (hopefully with nurture and experience), propelled her into an iconic pattern designer of the likes of Pucci.
Below are some more superb collections.
Visit: London Fashion Week.
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