LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W '07 With so many designers launching and showing their A/W '07 collections during London Fashion Week, it is no wonder that the bulk of shows now encompass three different locations namely: On | Off , Vauxhall Fashion Scout and London Fashion Week/British Fashion Council Tent; in addition to the designer shows at venues in and around London.
On top of this, the latest installment of London Fashion Week played host to exhibitions like: The London Fashion Week Exhibition, Designers & Agents, Pure, TBC, LFW at the Metropolitan Hotel and exhibits at On|Off at the Royal Academy of Arts. A heck of a lot to cover in just one week. But, despite the physical drain of navigating around all that was going on, it was well worth the effort. Why? Because of the chance of finding an emerging new label that in turn, would generate sales. And where London is concerned, there is more likelihood of finding a label to achieve that.
Below is a round-up of the shows.
Designer: Betty Jackson Betty Jackson managed to weave into her A/W '07 collection, many themes that complimented one another.
The first, was a modern take on the late Victorian century, with its' lace-up boots, heavy duty trousers and straight skirts both possessing modest length hems that fall short of the ankle. The second was reminiscent of the 1950's, with the use of simple block colour combo's in straightforward shapes that will flatter any women's shape.
Colours took on an uncharacteristic palette for the season. The perennial favourite black, was present however, colours like purple and emerald greens were cast aside for some unusual choices.
The changing colour of Autumn leaves was used in a selection of dresses and separates whilst the highlight colour (the most beautiful shade of grey) fruitfully yielded the most stunning pieces from the collection.
Prominent Colours: Black, Yellow, Grey, Pale Pink, Toffee, Brown
Designer: Julia Clancey 'If you want to be rich, you have to be a bitch', was the tune playing in the background at Julia Clancey's A/W '07 Collection. However, whatever modern music Clancey chose to help her models saunter down the catwalk, it didn't distract from her historical reference point for her collection. The roaring 20's. Think Charleston Girl's shimmying in their short fringed hem dresses, on cruise liners heading to Europe.
No room for power suits or trousers here (well just the one tapered pair — in velvet — worn with an equally fetching cape), Clancey displayed (with aplomb) her design talent for glamorous dresses in rich bitch colours that never fail to ignite.
And, colour wasn't the only appealing factor about her dresses. Hems took on a flirty feel through the use of a asymmetrical finish or petal shaped edges, embellished with sequins.
Whatever, the length of the dress, Clancey ensured the look was stylish, whether it be a classic tea shape, low-necked wrap-over dress, lace detailed t-shirt dress or a show stopping silver sequin number; they all oozed power and wealth.
Designer: Kisa Wardrobe staples are built from pieces like those seen in Kisa's A/W '07 show. Extremely wearable, the collection had a durability quality to it, that will ensure any piece bought could be worn time and time again.
To define the collection you have to envisage the type of women who would wear it. A Kisa wearing woman exudes style (in an understated way) that always ensures she looks polished with the minimum amount of effort. Clothes are never fussy, they have just the right amount of detailing and possess a distinct silhouette.
Trousers are straight up and down with bound on waist bands that flatter the stomach. Jackets take on cardigan shapes without the bulk or necessity for fastenings with collars that are worn high or left off completely. Skirts are (a diluted) cocoon shape, ultra short or just above the knee in length. Kisa even managed to throw in a box pleat hem for good measure.
When it comes to a Kisa women's dress, they come in two style camps. Demure tunic dresses in horizontal stripes or panel colours. Or, the über sexy polo-necked kind, with low backs, short hems and two textured fabric.
For a newcomer to LFW, the designer was a nice inclusion.
Designer: Manish Arora Manish Arora's A/W '07 creations exploded down the runway in a cacophony of colour that made viewers sit bolt upright, so as not to fail to blink in case they missed something spectacular.
There was no doubting were Arora got his inspiration this season from. The Emperors of China but it was fused breathtakingly with a space age theme that bordered on psychedelic.
Sounds implausible, well
remarkably, if you broke the pieces apart, the looks were wearable as the tunic dresses (embellished to perfection), could be worn with cotton leggings for a toned down look. As too the green and pink neon colours of the summer, incorporated brilliantly into zebra printed tunic tops with cowl necks.
Arora's love affair with all things metallic, in colours that are synonymous with royalty and church bishop's, were used in just about ever piece bar, the black (albeit) shiny leggings that continue to remain a key trend for the season.
Capes, emperor 3/4 length coats and coats with nodules on, introduced some interesting design concepts that will prove hard to replicate on the high street.
With theatrical make-up reminiscent of the type worn by geisha girls and characters in Star Wars, Manish Arora's A/W '07 collection was one of the highlights of the week.
Prominent Colours: Red, Gold, Silver, Emerald Green, Neon Pink and Green
Fabrics/Patterns: Embossed and Embellished Fabrics in Silk and Satin | Zebra Psychedelic Patterns, Patchwork Scenes
Buyer Contact: Obi Ejiofor at Self Service | Tel: +44 (0)20 7725 5700
Designer: Nico D LFW isn't famed for its menswear offering however, Nico Didonna of the Nico D label celebrated his début appearance at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout this season; showcasing his menswear collection as well as officially unveiling a proportion of his newly launched womenswear collection.
With a keen eye for detail, Nico’s A/W2007/08 ‘Metro Warrior’ collection was a melting pot of strong tailoring, sharp design and urban inspired colours using fabrics that included cashmere, wool, cotton and silk. The precision cut and fit allowed each garment to mould to the wearers body.
Strategically placed flap pockets on denim trousers that flattered the male form, incorporated twisted seams (in contrasting coloured thread — making them stand out), refreshed a wardrobe staple usually updated through colour, wash, back pocket motif or "fit". Buttons (with the right amount of attributes that didn't make them look too overbearing) were another feature that gave Nico D's collection distinction.
Onto the more sturdier stuff, 3/4 length leather and suede jackets, were toughened up with loosely tied belts for a polished city dweller look. Chunky knitted cardigans and jumpers (which were a resounding success last winter, due to the mild weather) in colours like cream and black & white, injected colour into sombre winter palette — that will wear well.
As for the ladieswear clothing, Nico feminised his menswear tailoring into an array of short skirted suits either enveloped by long coats with huge collars or cropped jackets. The standout pieces included a simple black dress worn with a leather jacket.
